Old Version
Essay

Henan to Hainan

The slower pace of island life combined with no longer feeling like the only outsider, is a refreshing reminder of how cosmopolitan a city can feel

By Mina Yan Updated Mar.1

Recently I packed up my life in Kaifeng, Henan Province, into 40+ boxes and moved my family to Haikou on the beautiful island province of Hainan. Geographically speaking, I moved from central China to the very south of the country. And although I haven’t moved out of China, this move did come with its own set of cultural and lifestyle differences. 

Henan, with its long history and rich heritage deeply rooted in traditional northern Chinese culture, and Kaifeng in particular, having once been the capital during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), still holds strong to its traditional roots. You can see it from the festivals celebrated on a more intense level and the Song Dynasty cuisine that is still found in restaurants. Family and community ties are strong, and traditional festivals are celebrated with a lot of enthusiasm, following age-old customs and practices passed down through generations. In a city like Kaifeng, people discover they’ve got friends in common while meeting each other for the first time. Many Kaifeng locals admitted to me that people there tend to stay close to home. 

Weather-wise, Henan has four distinct seasons. August and September can get incredibly hot while winters can be cold and dry, which means people are used to hearty, wheat-based diets like noodles and steamed buns. 

As I put on my thickest down coat and boarded the plane in Henan, I knew I was in for a tropical change. While not as warm and touristy as Sanya, the city of Haikou’s climate is comfortable and humid throughout the year, which means a wardrobe filled with light and breathable clothing. I gladly put away my fur coats and thick down jackets. 

Moving to the seaside is a literal breath of fresh air. Falling asleep to the sounds of the waves and waking up to a sunrise on the beach was an amazing change from the cold winter that I had just left behind. 

The cuisine in Haikou is dominated by fresh seafood and tropical fruits with flavor profile influences from Southeast Asia – bold flavors without being overwhelmingly heavy. I instantly fell in love with their locally made yellow chili sauce that seems to wake up every taste bud in your mouth and enjoyed bowl after bowl of rice noodle dishes that can be found in restaurants and street side stalls alike. 

I’m a foodie, but what’s gotten me loving my new life in Haikou more than the food is the welcoming vibe. Moving from a closely knit city like Kaifeng where people knew each other growing up, it wasn’t easy for an expat to fit in. I didn’t speak the local dialect nor was I familiar with the local customs and places that they talked about. The locals all have their favorite places and their cliques that they’re familiar with and most just aren’t looking to expand their circles, especially not to someone who’s not fluent in the language, knows the city like they do, and perhaps most importantly, wasn’t going to stick around for more than just a couple of years.
 
But Haikou has plenty of expats both local and foreign alike. Some have decided to make it their permanent home while others are calling it a temporary destination before moving on to their next adventure. This city is much more transient. It’s used to outsiders and many are eager to share their favorite places and even introduce other newbies on the island to me. I couldn’t have asked for a more welcoming start to my new life on the island. 

The slower pace of island life combined with no longer feeling like the only outsider, is a refreshing reminder of how cosmopolitan a city can feel. 

I traded in the historical architecture and ancient structures of Kaifeng that reflect its long history for the coconut trees and beaches of Haikou and I’m loving every moment of it. It’s not to say that one city is better than another, it’s just part of being an expat. We live in one city for a while and move on to the next, making a home wherever we go. It’s all part of the adventure and I’m so excited for this new island chapter. This move has not only been a change of address but a journey into a whole new world of cultural and lifestyle differences. It has broadened my horizons and made me appreciate the rich tapestry of diversity that exists within China.

Print