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Special Report

Trail Remix

New roads and infrastructure are driving tourism in China’s Xizang Autonomous Region, putting once-remote places in the eastern Himalayas onto the trekking map while benefiting local families

By Xu Ming Updated Oct.1

Tour groups visit Namtso Lake, the world’s highest-altitude saltwater lake, in Lhasa, Xizang Autonomous Region, August 22, 2024 (Photo by IC)

It’s a cozy May morning in Gelin, a small village in Medog County nestled in the eastern Himalayas of China’s Xizang Autonomous Region. Tourists are already stirring before 7 am to catch the sunrise over Mount Namjagbarwa. At 7,782 meters, the mountain is a must-see, especially at dawn, bathed in sunlight among a sea of clouds.  

Dolma Chozom, a villager and home-stay owner of the Monba ethnicity, has long been up and about. After cleaning her courtyard, she joined other villagers in cleaning the village road, picking up any trash people might have dropped. Then she began making breakfast for her lodgers, who were still asleep. While cooking, she answered phone calls from tourists seeking guides to explore the nearby old-growth forest.  

The village is dotted with homestays and restaurants, all of which would have been impossible without Medog’s paved road – the last county in China to get one – in 2013.  

In the 2000s, the village was still cut off from the outside world. It was a collection of ramshackle cabins with no electricity or plumbing, where people survived on hunting and slash-and-burn farming.  

Everything had to be carried by foot through the mountains, from salt and grain to washing machines and electricity generators – a trip of over 110 kilometers that took days from Medog or the nearest township, Pad.  

Dolma Chozom recalled portering in goods for her parents’ general store at 15. “My feet would get swollen and blistered halfway. It hurt so much,” said Dolma Chozom, now 41 years old. Portering used to be how most locals earned some income, with some starting as young as 10, village head Dorje Phuntsok said.  

Things started to improve dramatically in 2013 with a new paved road. Stretching 117 kilometers from Bome County, the road made Medog the last county in China to access the national road network. Since then, all villages in Medog got roads, from dirt to paved ones.  

Electricity did not reach the village until 2017, and government-subsidized home renovations followed. In 2019, the village kicked off plans to develop tourism around its unique landscape and tea plantations. Dolma Chozom said she now earns about 80,000 yuan (US$11,150) a year by running her homestay and restaurant.  

Gelin Village has about 15 homestays, and more are being built. In 2024, the village saw over 52,000 tourists. The homestay business brought the village 560,000 yuan (US$78,541) in 2024. 

“Before 2013, each villager earned less than 6,000 yuan (US$836) a year. With income from tourism, the tea industry and forest-based economies, their per capita income grew tenfold in 2024,” said Dorje Phuntsok. 

Secret Lotus 
Dolma Chozom said she had to learn the homestay business from the ground up. “It took me a while to understand why the bedsheets had to be replaced after every use,” she said with a laugh.  

Only eight families were initially willing to upgrade their homes for homestays. But when the pandemic hit, Gelin Village worked to improve its environment by separating livestock from living spaces, bringing in plumbing and upgrading toilets.  

“When tourists returned in 2023, the whole village became enthusiastic,” said Wen Guo, Dolma Chozom’s husband and business partner.  

With improved infrastructure, scenic villages like Gelin have become popular tourist destinations in Medog County.  

Located on the  southern slopes of the eastern Himalayas, Medog, or Motuo in standard Chinese, is carved out by the  Yarlung Zangbo River Grand Canyon. The world’s deepest (6,009 meters) and longest (504.6 kilometers), the canyon features nine climate zones from snowy alpine to tropical forests.  

Known for its rich biodiversity, Medog, which means “secret lotus” in Tibetan, is also home to China’s northernmost tropical rainforest and many ancient and rare species. The remote area is also home to multiple ethnic groups, primarily the Monba and Lhoba peoples.  

Several road-building attempts to Medog failed, starting in the 1960s. A rough road built in 1994 allowed only seasonal access. It was not until 2013 that the county became reachable year-round.  

In 2022, another 67-kilometer road connecting Medog with Pad was opened. This, together with the one connecting Bome, allows access to Medog from both north and west.  

“The roads bring us endless possibilities,” said Fu Yongbo, Party secretary of Medog County, adding that all the county’s amenities were built in the 10 years after the first paved road was com-pleted.“Roads are the foundation for developing tourism.”  

In 2012, Medog welcomed fewer than 20,000 visitors. But with the new high-way to Medog in 2013, tourist numbers surged to over 60,000, and hit 97,000 the following year. By 2024, it had jumped to 605,500.  

Tour guide Shen Huajiang said that when he first arrived in Medog in 2011, the road was stone-paved and suitable only for SUVs. Even when the county got its first paved road, it still lacked guardrails along the steep cliffs. “Many passengers were afraid to look down while we drove,” said Shen, who has worked in tourism for over 10 years. 

Those difficulties are now a thing of the past. In late May, Waiwai and her friends from Guangdong Province drove over 700 kilometers from Lhasa to Medog. “I first read about Medog in high school 20 years ago, and have been thinking about coming here ever since. Now I’ve actually made it!” Waiwai said.  

Waiwai visited scenic spots she saw on social media app RedNote, but was also impressed by the chain hotels, restaurants,cafes and book stores. “It’s hard to believe this was the last county to get a highway. Everything is so convenient and modern,” Waiwai said. 

In recent years, Medog has continued to improve roads, bridges and tourist facilities and services, while developing new tourist attractions, routes and ethnic cultural programs. 

In 2023, Medog waived its long-standing entrance fee of up to 210 yuan (US$29). That year, tourist visits in-creased by 162.7 percent, according to local statistics.  

“Tourists vote with their feet,” Party Secretary of Medog County Fu Yongbo told NewsChina. “You have to make every link in the chain work to at-tract tourists to this remote county.” 
 
Because of road safety restrictions, travelers can enter Medog County only on even-numbered days and exit on odd-numbered ones. Even so, over 4,000 people entered the county on even-numbered days in May, with hotels nearly fully booked. All this traffic has driven tourism revenue, which in 2024 alone totaled 390 million yuan (US$54.4m). 

This has also spurred the growth of Medog’s tea industry and forest-based economies, like fungi cultivation. In 2012, per capita disposable income of farmers and herders was only 4,875 yuan (US$679.5). By 2024, it stood at 24,935 yuan (US$3,475), surpassing the national rural average, according to local statistics. 

The road in the snowy mountains of Bome County winds toward Medog County, Xizang Autonomous Region, May, 2024 (Photo by IC)

Making Tracks 
Medog is a microcosm of how improved infrastructure has changed Xizang’s tourism landscape over the past few decades.  

“Now people can enter Xizang by train, plane or car. It’s equally convenient to travel within the region,” said Lhapa Dolma, a Tibetan tour guide with 16 years of experience.  

“It’s hard to imagine that 60 years ago, much of Xizang had no proper roads. Transport relied on human porters and pack animals like mules,” said Lhapa Dolma. Even though her child-hood home was just 20 kilometers away from downtown Lhasa, “going to Lhasa was a luxury,” she said. 

This is because building roads any-where in Xizang is not easy. There are high mountains, deep valleys and frequent mudslides and landslides. In 1965, the region had only 14,700 kilometers of roads. Though the QinghaiXizang and Sichuan-Xizang highways opened in 1954, they were narrow gravel tracks mainly used for emergency and basic transportation.  

Since then, government investment has increased immensely. From 2012 to 2024, 401.93 billion yuan (US$56b) was invested in highway infrastructure. Road mileage nearly doubled from 65,200 to 124,900 kilometers. High grade highways expanded from just 38 to 1,196 kilometers. 

Rural roads grew from 53,200 in 2012 to 94,800 kilometers today. Bus service now covers all counties, 623 townships and 3,869 villages. In 2020, Gandeng Village in Medog became the last in Xizang to be accessible by road.  

A railway milestone came in 2006 with the opening of the Qinghai-Xizang Line, known as the “Sky Road” due to the engineering challenges of building it at altitudes over 5,000 meters. It has dramatically reduced travel time and cost, opening the greater region to mass tourism.  

Between 2005 and 2007, tourist visits to Xizang soared from 1.8 million to 4.02 million, an 800-fold increase compared to 1980, according to the region’s tourism authorities. As of 2024, the region’s railway network reached 1,359 kilometers.  

The Lhasa-Nyingchi Railway, Xizang’s first electrified railway, opened in 2021, cutting travel time between the two cities to less than four hours. Driving from Lhasa to Nyingchi used to take at least eight hours.  

The city of Nyingchi, with its mild climate and lower altitude, became one of Xizang’s most popular destinations. Tourist visits nearly doubled from 7.1 million in 2018 to 13.17 million in 2023.  

Air travel has also expanded. Since the opening of Lhasa Gonggar International Airport in 1965, Xizang now has a network of five modern airports with 183 domestic and international routes to 78 cities.  

“More tourist spots are accessible now. Even places we rarely visit are connected by paved roads. Tourists have more choices and travel at a more relaxed pace,” guide Shen Huajiang said. 

The iconic Sichuan-Xizang Highway (G318), once a treacherous but breathtaking scenic route, has been gradually upgraded with tunnels and bridges, making it safer and more appealing to tourists.  

In Lulang Town along the G318 in Nyingchi, local homestay owner Tsangkye has seen firsthand how road upgrades transformed her village.  

Once just a rest stop, the town now draws droves of visitors for its meadows, forests and snow-capped peaks. Tsangkye’s family started homestays on their farm in 2008, earning only a few thousand yuan a year.  

But business expanded after nearby sections of the G318 were paved in 2017, with added improvements like new bridges and tunnels to avoid dangerous curves and landslide-prone areas. Today, she runs a 22-room guesthouse that earned 300,000 yuan (US$41,714) in 2024. 

Lulang is now an international tourist destination with upgraded amenities, including modern hotels. Visits to the town totaled 757,100 in 2024, including those made by foreign tourists. An employee at the five-star Nyingchi Hengda Hotel told NewsChina that they average about 900 foreign guests a year.  

Since 2021, Xizang had invested 16.98 billion yuan (US$2.4b) in upgrading highways in the region such as the G318, G109 and G219. According to a tourism development conference held in Lhasain in October 2024, the goals include improving efficiency, emergency response and tourist routes to benefit local communities.  

The region has also expanded energy and internet access. From 2012 to 2024, electricity users grew from 1.75 million to nearly 3.5 million. All administrative villages now have fiber optic internet and 4G coverage. Seventy percent have 5G.  

In 2024, rural visits in Xizang reached 23.5 million, generating 3.3 billion yuan (US$459.9m). Over 315,200 farmers and herders benefited directly from tourism, according to local tourism authorities. 

Along with another bridge and four tunnels, Tongmai Grand Bridge on the G318 highway, which opened in 2015, allows drivers to avoid dangerous landslide and debris ffow-prone areas, Tongmai Town, Bome County, Xizang Autonomous Region, June 1, 2024 (Photo by IC)

Tourists visit Basum Tso, a lake in Nyingchi, Xizang Autonomous Region, May 24, 2025 (Photo by Xu Ming)

Flush with Amenities 
“In the past, trips were long, and toilets were not always available even at scenic spots. Some tourists had no choice but to relieve themselves in the wild,” tour guide Lhapa Dolma said. Travelers complained on social media about the filthy pit toilets in remote attractions.  

To address this, Xizang launched a “toilet revolution” in 2017, upgrading restrooms at major tourist sites. Attractions like the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and Namtso Lake now have flush toilets, greatly enhancing hygiene and comfort. These sites also have visitor centers offering guided tours, information, rest areas and medical support.  

Since 2021, Xizang has invested 20.16 billion yuan (US$2.8b) in cultural and tourism infrastructure, national park facilities and preservation of historic towns, according to the October 2024 tourism development conference in Lhasa.  

To help visitors cope with altitude sickness, some attractions provide oxygen supply points and emergency medical stations.  

At Mount Kailash in Ngari Prefecture, a sacred site for multiple religions such as Buddhism and Hinduism, conditions for pilgrims and trekkers have also improved. The 50-kilometer kora, a ritual circumambulation route, was risky due to extreme weather, low oxygen and lack of services. Early visitors carried all their own supplies or relied on pack yaks.  

Today, around 10 supply points are spaced every five kilometers, providing food, drinks and portable oxygen canisters, improving safety and attracting more travelers in recent years.  

Mount Qomolangma Base Camp (North Base Camp) in Dingri County, Xigaze, has seen similar changes. Once a cluster of makeshift tents, the camp as of late June boasts low-carbon, prefabricated structures with better insulation, moisture resistance and soundproofing. The camp also offers free blood pressure and oxygen supply checks, along with 24-hour emergency medical care, in-room oxygen rentals and access to hyperbaric oxygen chambers.  

The Potala Palace in Lhasa, opened to tourists in the early 1980s, has also undergone changes over the years to improve services. A strict daily visitor cap of 2,300 was set in 2003 to protect the ancient building. Between 2002 and 2009, the palace carried out major renovations that allowed it to raise the cap to 5,000 around 2013. Later, it opened a second tour route to accommodate more visitors during peak seasons. The palace now admits up to 7,000 visitors daily in staggered time slots to preserve the visitor experience.  

It has also made a series of efforts to upgrade its ticket booking system, including online payment, advance ticket purchase and facial recognition. “This not only makes it more convenient for people to visit the Potala Palace but also eliminates ticket scalping, making sure the tickets go to people who truly want to come,” said Kunga Tashi, vice director of the palace’s management department.  

Its cultural and creative products center, opened in 2016, initially sold few souvenirs, only photobooks and postcards. Later, it expanded to porcelain items, figurines and decorative ornaments inspired by the palace.  

“We update the product line every year,” Kunga Tashi said, which now numbers in the thousands and is available online. Sales from cultural products rose from around 5 million yuan (US$696,200) in 2016 to about 20 million yuan (US$2.8m) in 2024, according to Kunga Tashi.  
In 2024, the palace received 2.01 million visits, including a growing number of foreign tourists, Kunga Tashi said.  

Among them was Peter Hoffmann, a New Zealander living in Australia who visited in May.  
“It did not disappoint,” he told NewsChina. “Lhasa is a very clean city and my guide was extremely knowledgeable and easy to understand.”  

He said it was clear the Chinese government has heavily invested in improving infrastructure in the region. “I’d like to return when the high-speed train (connecting Chengdu and Lhasa) is up and running,” Hoffman said.  

Between 2007 and 2024, tourist visits to Xizang rose from 4.02 million to 63.89 million. Among them, 320,400 were from abroad, a 188.2 percent increase. Over the same period, total tourism spending increased 15-fold to 74.59 billion yuan (US$10.4b), according to Xizang’s statistics bureau. 

Tsangkye’s homestay is nestled in the mountains of Lulang Town, Nyingchi, Xizang Autonomous Region, May 23, 2025 (Photo by Xu Ming)

Higher Hopes 
In May 2025, the region released a development plan for its cultural and tourism industry (2025-2035) that outlines a roadmap for building Xizang into a world-class cultural tourism destination. 

Priorities include developing high quality scenic areas and travel routes, integrating regional culture with tourism, diversifying tourist products and further improving infrastructure. Safety services, such as improved access to oxygen facilities, are also a focus.  

To attract more foreign tourists, the plan calls for faster border clearance, expanded multilingual services at scenic spots and specially designed tourist routes, products and performances tailored to international visitors.  

As of January 2025, Xizang has one national-level tourist resort (Lulang Town) and five 5A-rated sites, according to Xizang’s culture and tourism authorities.  

The region aims to expand tourism revenues to 130 billion yuan (US$18b) by 2030, increasing the number of 5Arated attractions and national-level resorts to 10.  

By 2035, Xizang plans to increase tourism expenditure to 200 billion yuan (US$27.8b), with 15 5A-rated attractions and national-level resorts.  

These efforts aim to reach Xizang’s most remote communities. “Medog will develop tourism as its pillar industry,” Party Secretary of Medog County Fu Yongbo said, pointing to further improvements of services and amenities, as well as new projects.  

Among them is a Yarlung Zangbo River-themed ecological museum, which is in the works. A collaboration with the Chinese Academy of Sciences (CAS), the museum will offer visitors an up-close look into what makes the scenery special. “We want to help visitors visualize the region’s nine vertical natural zones and why it’s a rare treasure of biodiversity,” Fu said.  

In addition, CAS’s existing laboratory in Medog, which opened in 2018 to study the Tibetan Plateau’s unique landscape and systems, will soon open a research base for college students, scholars and tourists. “It will become a high-end tourist product,” according to Liu Zhu, vice director of Medog’s tourism bureau.  

Gelin Village is also making plans. “Our goal for the next few years is to keep improving infrastructure and services and innovate to attract tourists,” village head Dorje Phuntsok said, adding that he hopes to see every local family running their own business.  

He also recognizes the challenges ahead through what they have experienced. “We will move forward slowly, allowing villagers’ mindsets and infrastructure to catch up,” he told NewsChina.

Pilgrims prepare to trek the 50-kilometer kora around Mount Kailash in Ngari Prefecture, Xizang Autonomous Region, July 21, 2025 (Photo by IC)

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